Fish Head in Broth, Mustard Leaves and Radish: Sinigang na Ulo ng Isda sa Labanos at Mustasa

This is one of my favorite dishes from childhood. I learned to cook this from my father, and it was a perennial weekend lunch favorite, wonderful when paired with grilled pork ribs or fish and a lot of white rice. This dish is one of the countless variations of the classic sinigang, a staple of Filipino cuisine. Sinigang is basically simmered, a process that lends well to the subtle melding of flavors that cannot be replicated in a fast boil or even a saute. Sinigang is a very healthy way of cooking. There is no frying or grilling involved and when meat is used, it is convenient to spoon off unwanted fat floating on the surface of the simmering broth. Sour cooking is a belated trend in some American restaurants, along with the encouraging rise in popularity of the patis or fish sauce among non-Asian diners. Souring agents can range from the subtle such as ripe tomatoes, green mangoes, guava, to the tart and assertive flavors of crushed tamarind, lemon or lime juices, but never vinegar. Cooking with vinegar, in Filipino cuisine, belongs in its own category, and it would be foolish to toy with the idea of substituting vinegar for a fresh souring ingredient. It will not come out the same and the subtlety of the flavors are lost. When fresh souring ingredients are not readily available, a good packet of instant sinigang mix is an acceptable alternative. Sinigang mix is avaialble in most Asian food stores, Filipino food markets if there is one near you, and some supermarket chains, in brands such as Knorr and Mama Sita, and Maggi. Try to add the sinigang mix powder sparingly, to your taste. It has a lot of salt, and pouring all the contents of the packet will result to a very tart and salty sinigang, with all the vegetable and fish flavors lost in the tangy mush. Not appetizing.

Here is the recipe for sinigang na ulo ng isda sa mustasa at labanos:

2 lbs meaty fish head, cut in sections (halibut is a good choice, among many)

1 large white onion, halved and sliced

3 medium ripe tomatoes, cut into quarters

3 pcs whole jalapeno peppers, rinsed with stems intact

1 large bunch mustard greens (or bok choy when preferred), rinsed and trimmed

1 large white daikon radish, peeled and cut into 1/4 inch discs

1/2 portion of small packet instant sinigang mix (tamarind or guava)

1 bunch green onions, rinsed and root ends trimmed

10-12 cups water.

Heat water in a deep pot , add the onions and tomatoes, and bring to a slow simmer. Allow to simmer until the tomatoes and onions are tender, crushing the tomatoes with a spoon while stirring. Add the sinigang mix When the broth is slowly rising to a boil, add the fish head sections, and cook until the fish is cooked(meat is flaky and opaque). Add the radish and jalapeno peppers, and cook for 5 minutes. Add the mustard greens and green onions, and simmer for another 3-5 minutes depending on the size of the leaves. Remove from heat and served immediately with a dipping sauce of fish sauce, lime or lemon juice, black peppers and raw minced garlic, and if you want more kick, mush the jalapeno peppers from the stew into the dipping sauce.

Enjoy.